Dancing along the border of North Carolina and Tennessee, the Smoky mountains dominate the landscape. A perpetual fog hovers above them, which is how they got their name. It’s one of the most visited national parks, and as such, we needed a permit for hiking and were only allowed to camp at designated sites. The shelters were quite busy, as all the hikers bunched up.
The trail goes along the ridge, and the change is immediately noticeable. Instead of sleeping wintery maple trees, we were walking through pine forests and beech trees. The ground underfoot became rockier and a carpet of delicate white flowers bloomed on the ground. We started seeing deer in the early morning beside the trail.
Our mileage dropped off, as the climbs became more demanding and the trail showed more wear and tear, slowing our pace. Clingsmans Dome was a particularly challenging hike. The AT wound up to the top, where there was a sudden inundation of car tourists. An Observation tower built in the 1950’s provides a sweeping 360 degree view. When we got there, a fellow thru-hiker was sitting at the foot of the tower, he pointed us to the 200 mile mark and took our photo.
200 miles and the Observation Tower in the background
We camped that evening near a shelter that was deep in the pine woods at the foot of the Dome. There were hikers everywhere and the bear hang was quite full. I had a good laugh when I noticed that someone had decided to hang their entire pack, rather than just the food bags.
The next day we reached Newfound Gap, which is roughly halfway through the Smoky Mountains. Lots of hikers left from here to go into Gatlinburg for resupply and a rest. A surprisinng number of them never came back. The last few days had been challenging and very, very cold. Walking out of the gap, we were treated to some of the most spectacular scenery yet. A narrow trail went along the ridge with views to the east and west.
Hiking at 5900 feet
Our last night in the Smoky’s we arrived at Cosby Knob camp and were told a hiker who had arrived earlier had seen a bear come running down the trail, straight through camp. By the time we had pitched our tent, it was so busy that no one was too worried about bears.
It was a drizzly morning as we left the mountains, heading down to the Davenport Gap. Here we found more trail magic, on an epic scale. A church group from Tennessee was doing their once a year trail magic BBQ. There was a canopy set up to keep the rain off, camping chairs, and steak. After freezing cold days and many rehydrated meals, this was a real treat! And tomorrow, we would be in Hot Springs with a day off to relax.
After the zero day in Franklin, it was time to hit the trail again. Dan had scheduled three nights to reach the Smoky Mountains, where we would be hiking at our highest elevations so far. The days getting there had their own challenges.
First up was the hike to the NOC (Nantahala Outdoor Center) which the trail goes directly through. The descent down to the river valley was notoriously steep, with an actual, walk-in-the-door-off-the-trail, restaurant at the bottom. The weather forecast was not looking good, and many of the other hikers were planning to wait it out at the Wesser Bald shelter just before the descent.
We decided to push on rather than take a wait for the weather all day. The view from the top was a sweeping vista with mountains hovering on the horizon. At first, the trail dropped very steeply and suddenly along a narrow path. After the first half mile, it levelled out and became more reasonable.
Flamingo fabulous in retro caravan
That night we stayed at Gorgeous Stays; more than just a hostel, the owner Elena has taken several forms of transportation and turned each into a camper with it’s own theme. There’s a red double decker bus with a Harry Potter theme, a small caravan with flamingo’s, a canine cabin, and several more. Laundry, loaner clothes, and small self-serve kitchen were available.
The next day the storm hit, and the other hikers at Gorgeous stays took a break from walking. Except Dan, he went out into the storm and made the arduous climb out of NOC. I chose to linger in our flamingo themed caravan and wash some laundry. When I joined him after the rain, it was still misty and mysterious, but no longer pouring rain.
We continued on towards Fontana Dam. The shelter on the lake there is known as ‘The Hilton’ because it is more protected from the eements, has hot showers, and a great view of the lake. If it were a real Hilton, the view alone would be worth an extra 100 dollars.
‘Fontana Hilton’ on the lake
As we were packing up our tent and heading to the Next Big Climb (4200 feet over 11 miles) we realised it was Easter Sunday. The climb from Fontana Dam to the Mollies Ridge Shelter is the first real haul – but worth every step. As we climber higher the lake spread out below us sparkling in the bright spring sun.
When we got to Mollies Dan and I found the busiest shelter we seen since Hawks Shelter, with easily 20 people. A lot had taken 1 or even 2 days off, waiting for the weather to improve, so it had created a bubble of hikers. Everyone was in a good mood – it had been a beautiful sunny day, and we had entered the Smokies!
Every Northbound (NOBO) hiker on the Appalachian trail starts at Springer Mountain in Georgia. Getting to Springer via car is a logistical nightmare on back country roads, so most hikers start from Amicalola Falls. This adds 8 miles to the 2,198.4 mile journey, but is considered the better option.
We signed in at the ranger’s station on March 24, took our first AT photo under the iconic arch, and then climbed the stairs past the flowing waterfalls to the lodge where we stayed the night. From our warm bed we watched the lightning playing across the sky and the rain beating against the windows. Tomorrow’s weather was predicted to be dry and sunny.
The ‘official’ AT arch, at the start of the approach trail
The beginning of the AT is infamous for being one of the most difficult parts of the trail, mostly because of its many (and constant) climbs. There is no time to change gears from going up, then down a hill. In retrospect, it’s not that hard. Most of us simply weren’t trail fit yet. The hikers who were, sped ahead never to be seen again.
Blood Mountain is the first real peak and of the hikers who make it this far, roughly 30% call it quits at this point. Much more challenging than Springer Mountain, the climb up the backside is gradual and easy, but coming down it’s a boulder-filled knee-jarring descent. Happily, the first outdoor shop, Mountain Crossings, is on the other side of the mountain with frozen pizzas, shake-down’s to eliminate extra weight, and cabins.
View from the northern side of Blood Mountain
View from the northern side of Blood Mountain
By this point we had been on the trail for 4 nights, and had met enough people that there was a reunion-like feeling seeing familiar faces at the picnic tables outside the store. There are more hikers on the trail at this point than any other time. Everyone is fresh, excited, and eager for the journey – regardless of whether they are prepared or not.
We were well-prepared, but that night, the temperatures hovered just above freezing. Dan and I had pitched the tent in Swaim Gap, a mile past Mountain Crossings. It was early spring, so the trees were bare, and we were on a ridge. Throughout the night, I would hear the wind roaring, a sound similar to ocean waves, and would brace myself, anticipating the cold as it cut through our tent, taking the warmth of our bodies with it.
Home for half a year – Big Agnes in the cold Georgia spring
The days settled into a rhythm. From Mtn Crossings it would be three days to get to Hiawassee & Clayton. There was a hostel there called ‘Around the Bend’ that will pick hikers up from the trailhead for free, if you’re staying with them. The Outfitter 76 in Clayton also runs a free shuttle from the trailhead to town. For many hikers, this is the first stop for laundry, a hot meal, and beer. (For a full of overview of the hostels we stayed at follow the link: )
Leaving the hostel, it was a drippy, misty morning. Some of the hikers decided to stay an extra day to avoid the weather, but Dan and I were on a schedule (dur to his six month visa), and anyway, it wasn’t raining that hard. We were rewarded with a break in the weather, a wide open empty trail, and the peaceful quietude that settles over woods after the rain. We were excited, in the next couple days we would cross our first state line and pass the 100 mile mark.
Everyone talked about how difficult Georgia was, and apparantly North Carolina was supposed to be much easier. Instead, we were welcomed by three STEEP climbs that came fast and quick. It was a windy day and the struggle to stay upright with a full pack was real. That evening at the Muskrat Shelter, every hiker was exhausted and a bit ticked-off by the hype that NC would be easier. It did Not get easier.
First state border !
The next two days to Franklin were marked by steeper ascents, continued misty weather, and a noticeable decrease in the number of hikers. ‘Tramilies’ were forming – trail families, groups of hikers who would begin and end the day together, catch up at lunch and any other milestones during the day.
Finally, we were on the last approach to the Winding Stair Gap. The day before we had walked 16 miles, so the 12 miles to the gap should have been easy. The continued cold and misty weather, the relentless ups and downs (a theme of the trail), and the expectation of a warm bed and a zero-mile day tomorrow made it seem exceptionally long. Additionally, the shuttle only ran three times a day so there was an urgency to the hike.
Dan having his first PBR
On reaching the gap, there was a pleasant surprise – our first trail Magic! Trail Magic is when a charitable individual or group spends the day at a trailhead, road crossing, or park along the AT with treats for thru hikers. Usually this is sodas & snacks. Sometimes, a BBQ and beers. This time, it was donuts, chips, soda and PBR’s courtesy of a thru hiker from 2017 named ‘Lucky’. He had brought his RV and spent the cold rainy day handing out treats and drinks. By the time we got there, he was finishing up and offered to take us into town.
After what felt like weeks (but was actually only 10 nights), we had reached Franklin.
