Hot Springs to Mountain Harbor
The first stop out of the Smoky Mountains is Hot Springs. The trail goes straight through town, no detours or shuttled required. The main hostel is Laughing Heart, a B&B as well as the AT hiker bunkhouse. It is located just outside town, and a short walk to the grocery shop, the outfitters, ice cream shop and local brewery.
That night there was a bonfire and we met several other AT hikers. After a jolly night, we left town and went back to the trail. Immediately there was a steep climb, out of the river valley into the mountains. A landmark on the way is known as ‘Lovers Leap’ after a local Native american story about two young lovers. Their families that did not approve, and so, together they jumped to their deaths. It reminded me a lot of Romeo and Juliet.
On the trail, we passed a few familiar faces – at this point, more and more hikers had trail names. Bagel was heading for the ‘Cookie Lady’s’ house. This old lady is known for offering water, a rocking chair, and free cookies to any hiker who walks the extra 300 yards off trail to her house. Slim Pickings was suffering from black widow spider bites and had slowed down. Riot had decided an extra day in town was just the thing. Scoops was miles ahead of everyone as usual.
The next few days were the hottest yet, and hiker after hiker was falling sick with the dreaded Norovirus. Dan caught the bug shortly before we reached the next town, so we shuttled into Erwin and took an extra day at Uncle Johnny’s hostel for him to rest. The second night, there was a hiker named Laos who had just finished his section, and he made a BBQ feast. The rest of us bought drinks and snacks to contribute and we had another great evening. We also met two hikers who we would see the whole way to Katahdin, Stealth and Pigeon.
On a cool and misty day, we got a shuttle of Erwin and began the hike to Roan Mountain, the next Big Climb, and a surprisingly gentle one, when compared to what we had just done in the Smokies. This was one of the coldest nights on trail, with the temperatures hovering at freezing. The next morning, I saw for the first time ice crystals in the soil.
Happily, we stumbled across more trail magic at the foot of the mountain. A hiking group out of Tennessee was setting up with hot tomato soup, grilled cheese sandwiches, hot chocolate and coffee(!) and the usual assortment of bars, chips, soda, and first aid basics.
From here it was a nice easy coast down into Carter’s gap,where we would be staying at Mountain Harbour hikers hostel. Home to the most famous breakfast on the Appalaichan trail!
