Damascus to Marion
Damascus was the first major ‘hiker vortex’ town we encountered. People would walk in, everyone planning to take a zero, enjoy a hot meal, see familiar faces, and hike on. How we, with so many hikers taking zero’s it was an easy place to spend an extra day (or two).
We managed to escape the vortex, mostly because of Dan’s visa clock, tik-tok, tik-tok. There was however, a very jolly night with Slim, Bagel, Scoops n Blue, singing songs to the guitar. So, with a later start than usual, we took the Virginia Creeper Trail. This is one of the ‘Rail to Trail”s that are becoming more common in the States. Old railroads – reliably flat, wide, and near water – have been converted into biking and hiking paths. On a dreary, drizzly morning, it made for a fast and pleasant walk out of town. 13 easy miles, and then back up into the mountains to rejoin the trail.
Our next major ‘highlight’ of the trail was yet another steep climb to high altitudes – the Grayson Highlands, home of the famous wild ponies. It would be 2-3 days of sustained high altitude during an unusually cold spring. The highlands were ecologically unique, with lots of balds. These are big, wide open spaces that have very few scraggly trees and lots of wide open meadows.
But, there were ponies. And snow. May 1 and there were tiny little flakes falling from the sky. In the morning, at the designated shelters (there is no free camping in the Highlands) hikers were waking up to frost, crunchy socks, and beautifully freezing scenery.
We hurried through, and began the final ascent to the famous ‘Friendship Shelter’. It is the first fancy shelter on the trail, with fancy meaning that it has four walls and a roof. Also, a hot shower (usually, but not always in service). There is a visitor center nearby that is friendly to hikers, heated, and has a land line which is most frequently used to ORDER PIZZA. After leaving Damascus, this is THE highlight.
It is also the jumping off point for the shuttle to Marion – a handy town to re-supply, have a hot meal, go to an outfitters, and even do laundry if you stay at the hostel ‘Merry Hiker’. This hostel is conveninelty located downtown above the outfitters.
From Marion, the next town is Pearisburg. Home of one of my favorite hostels, and the point in Virginia when spring truly sprung.