The first stop out of the Smoky Mountains is Hot Springs. The trail goes straight through town, no detours or shuttled required. The main hostel is Laughing Heart, a B&B as well as the AT hiker bunkhouse. It is located just outside town, and a short walk to the grocery shop, the outfitters, ice cream shop and local brewery.
View from Lovers Leap
That night there was a bonfire and we met several other AT hikers. After a jolly night, we left town and went back to the trail. Immediately there was a steep climb, out of the river valley into the mountains. A landmark on the way is known as ‘Lovers Leap’ after a local Native american story about two young lovers. Their families that did not approve, and so, together they jumped to their deaths. It reminded me a lot of Romeo and Juliet.
On the trail, we passed a few familiar faces – at this point, more and more hikers had trail names. Bagel was heading for the ‘Cookie Lady’s’ house. This old lady is known for offering water, a rocking chair, and free cookies to any hiker who walks the extra 300 yards off trail to her house. Slim Pickings was suffering from black widow spider bites and had slowed down. Riot had decided an extra day in town was just the thing. Scoops was miles ahead of everyone as usual.
Hiker Laos and the BBQ feast
The next few days were the hottest yet, and hiker after hiker was falling sick with the dreaded Norovirus. Dan caught the bug shortly before we reached the next town, so we shuttled into Erwin and took an extra day at Uncle Johnny’s hostel for him to rest. The second night, there was a hiker named Laos who had just finished his section, and he made a BBQ feast. The rest of us bought drinks and snacks to contribute and we had another great evening. We also met two hikers who we would see the whole way to Katahdin, Stealth and Pigeon.
On a cool and misty day, we got a shuttle of Erwin and began the hike to Roan Mountain, the next Big Climb, and a surprisingly gentle one, when compared to what we had just done in the Smokies. This was one of the coldest nights on trail, with the temperatures hovering at freezing. The next morning, I saw for the first time ice crystals in the soil.
View from Roan Mtn
Happily, we stumbled across more trail magic at the foot of the mountain. A hiking group out of Tennessee was setting up with hot tomato soup, grilled cheese sandwiches, hot chocolate and coffee(!) and the usual assortment of bars, chips, soda, and first aid basics.
Trail Magic with the Tennessee Hiking Club
From here it was a nice easy coast down into Carter’s gap,where we would be staying at Mountain Harbour hikers hostel. Home to the most famous breakfast on the Appalaichan trail!
Damascus was the first major ‘hiker vortex’ town we encountered. People would walk in, everyone planning to take a zero, enjoy a hot meal, see familiar faces, and hike on. How we, with so many hikers taking zero’s it was an easy place to spend an extra day (or two).
We managed to escape the vortex, mostly because of Dan’s visa clock, tik-tok, tik-tok. There was however, a very jolly night with Slim, Bagel, Scoops n Blue, singing songs to the guitar. So, with a later start than usual, we took the Virginia Creeper Trail. This is one of the ‘Rail to Trail”s that are becoming more common in the States. Old railroads – reliably flat, wide, and near water – have been converted into biking and hiking paths. On a dreary, drizzly morning, it made for a fast and pleasant walk out of town. 13 easy miles, and then back up into the mountains to rejoin the trail.
Our next major ‘highlight’ of the trail was yet another steep climb to high altitudes – the Grayson Highlands, home of the famous wild ponies. It would be 2-3 days of sustained high altitude during an unusually cold spring. The highlands were ecologically unique, with lots of balds. These are big, wide open spaces that have very few scraggly trees and lots of wide open meadows.
But, there were ponies. And snow. May 1 and there were tiny little flakes falling from the sky. In the morning, at the designated shelters (there is no free camping in the Highlands) hikers were waking up to frost, crunchy socks, and beautifully freezing scenery.
We hurried through, and began the final ascent to the famous ‘Friendship Shelter’. It is the first fancy shelter on the trail, with fancy meaning that it has four walls and a roof. Also, a hot shower (usually, but not always in service). There is a visitor center nearby that is friendly to hikers, heated, and has a land line which is most frequently used to ORDER PIZZA. After leaving Damascus, this is THE highlight.
It is also the jumping off point for the shuttle to Marion – a handy town to re-supply, have a hot meal, go to an outfitters, and even do laundry if you stay at the hostel ‘Merry Hiker’. This hostel is conveninelty located downtown above the outfitters.
From Marion, the next town is Pearisburg. Home of one of my favorite hostels, and the point in Virginia when spring truly sprung.
We are two cheeky travelers on a mission to see (more) of the world. Dan is the man with a plan from Down Under, and I am a light-hearted Cali girl with a talent for making friends, and a compulsion to journal. We have a shared a passion for travel, nature & hiking -and the well-earned beer or wine that comes after!
After meeting one spring evening in Amsterdam at a canal-side cafe in 2019, we spent an idyllic summer in Europe, discovering we actually travel quite well together. Dan moved to Abu Dhabi and I shortly followed. From there, we were able to continue traveling during the pandemic, thanks to a pro-active response by the UAE government.
Dan continues to plan exotic and adventurous trips. I continue to document and enjoy them, and we look forward to sharing the current & upcoming, as well as the ones already done.
